Forgotten Giants of the Desert: The Race to Save Assiut’s Centuries-Old Caravanserais

Since the Ottoman era, Assiut has been an important commercial hub in Upper Egypt, with caravans passing through on their way to Sudan via the Darb al-Arba’in route, and a destination for merchants from around the world. The city has retained its commercial status over time, with the caravanserais of Lutfi, Shalabi, and Thabit standing in the narrow alleys of Al-Qaisariya as living witnesses to a history spanning more than three centuries. With their Islamic architecture and antique decorative features, these caravanserais tell the story of a city that was once a thriving center of trade and urban development in Upper Egypt. Today, however, they suffer from neglect and need saving before they are forever erased from the city’s memory.

Assiut: The Crossroads of Civilizations

Assiut’s legacy as a commercial powerhouse dates back centuries. “During the Islamic era, the city of Assiut was at the forefront of commercial cities due to its privileged location,” explains Ali Ahmed Mahfouz, director of antiquities in western Assiut. Its position on the Nile and at the junction of ancient trade routes like the famed Darb al-Arba’in to Sudan made it a magnet for merchants during the Mamluk and Ottoman periods.

This commercial ecosystem was housed in specialized structures. The city was once home to four qaisariyas,covered markets dedicated to a single trade, such as gold or fabrics. Within these were the larger complexes known as caravanserais.

“The difference is key,” says Mahfouz. “A qaisariya was a specialised market. A caravanserai was a large commercial center for displaying goods, with storage and, crucially, accommodation for traveling merchants. A one-stop hub for trade and lodging.”

Remnants of trading glory

Mahfouz continues, “Assiut used to have four ‘qaisariyas,’ a Persian word meaning a covered commercial market or shopping mall. Their presence was a reason why Assiut stood out from other commercial cities.”

Mahfouz continues, “Assiut used to have four ‘qaisariyas,’ a Persian word meaning a covered commercial market or shopping mall. Their presence was a reason why Assiut stood out from other commercial cities.”

The four qaisariyas included 34 trading inns. Regarding the difference, Mahfouz explains: “A qaysariya is a covered market that houses a group of shops specializing in the sale of a single type of goods, such as meat, gold, or fabrics. A trading inn, on the other hand, is a large commercial center for displaying goods. It also includes accommodation for merchants visiting the city, combining trade, storage, and lodging.”

The Shalabi Caravenserai

The Shalabi Agency, or “Bint Shalabi Agency,” is known as one of the oldest commercial agencies in Asyut. It was founded in 1824 and is registered as an Islamic and Coptic monument. It is attributed to Prince Muhammad al-Kashif bin Zadeh, the governor of Assiut and discoverer of the oases.

The caravenserai consists of four main elements:

• Shops: Located at the front of the agency, their function is to sell, buy, and exchange goods.
• Warehouses: There are 19 warehouses. These are rooms with palm leaf roofs covered with semicircular domes used to store goods. They are preceded by a shed built on ten hollow brick columns.
• The courtyard: This is the inner courtyard that was reserved for animals such as camels, horses, and donkeys belonging to merchants.
• The second floor: This was reserved for accommodating visiting merchants. It is accessed via a staircase on the front side and comprises 19 rooms.

The henna and ostrich feather trade

The Shalabi caravanserai continued to operate until the 1980s. It welcomed Sudanese merchants who were involved in the henna trade. It was also known for selling products such as ostrich feathers, elephant tusks, and Assiut silk. However, its buildings suffered cracks in the early 1980s, leading to their closure, and they were recently reinforced with metal supports to protect them from collapse. Today the building is waiting for someone to come to its rescue so that three centuries of history do not collapse.

Lutfi Caravenserai

The Lutfi caravanserai was established in 1692, according to the inscription on its facade. It is currently affiliated with the Supreme Council of Antiquities, Islamic and Coptic Antiquities Sector in Assiut. Mahfouz says: “It was founded by Hajj Lutfi Abdel-Gawad bin Abdel-Bar al-Assiouti, nicknamed the captain of Egypt’s merchants or the captain of its notables, who was a merchant of great standing. His agency specialized in the leather trade. It collected leather from the governorates of Upper Egypt and then transported it to the tanneries. Then to the wall of the eye canal in Cairo.”

The caravenserai has two entrances: the old entrance is a huge monument topped by a triple arch decorated with carved brick and wood, and the second entrance is for animals. The agency includes a group of warehouses for storing goods, topped by a dome, with a single staircase leading to the merchants’ rooms. It was built of mud bricks, palm trunks, and clay to reduce heat. It was one of the first warehouses in Upper Egypt.

Thabit caravanserai and Water Well

The Thabit caravanserai is the largest Islamic caravanserai registered among the Islamic and Coptic monuments in Asyut. It was established by Muhammad Thabit, grandson of Prince Muhammad al-Kashif (ruler of Asyut and Kashif al-Wahat), in the 18th century. The caravenserai is distinguished by the presence of an ancient freshwater well in its courtyard, which makes it unique among the caravanserai of Assiut It also includes square-shaped storage rooms and a huge monumental entrance overlooking Muhammad Mahmoud Pasha Street (currently Al-Qaisariya), and it retains it’s original door.

Like others, the caravanserai welcomed merchants for a nominal fee, with the first floor designated for displaying and storing goods. The second floor was reserved for accommodating visiting merchants when it was time to complete their journeys. These rooms are accessed by a staircase located in the southern corner of the agency. The roof is open and overlooks the courtyard via a wooden balcony. This courtyard is distinguished from other agency courtyards by its gabled roof with a vent that allows air to pass through and cool the interior.

Today, it suffers from neglect, with cracked and dirty walls. It has been turned into a warehouse for the shopkeepers on Al-Qaisariya Street.

Al-Qaisariya Street: Memories and Old Professions

Ahmed Jaber, one of the oldest merchants located next to the Shalabi caravenserai, says:

“The Qaisariya area is still thriving with various trades. It is home to many ancient traditional crafts. Here you will find coppersmiths and blacksmiths using their traditional tools, as well as major grain merchants. There are also craftsmen whose trades are threatened with extinction, such as municipal upholsterers and cobblers. This ancient district bears witness to the commercial greatness of Assiut, both past and present.”

Ahmed Mustafa, 75, the oldest coppersmith in the district, who has been working in the profession for 60 years next to these caravenserai, adds: “Those old caravenserai created unforgettable memories for everyone. They were operating until the 1980s, and merchants flocked to them from all over the governorates to trade in various products.”

He continued: “I used to make household utensils from copper, which is now rare, and then from aluminum. I also made tools used for measuring grains. The Qaisariya area, with its caravenserai, was an important commercial center that attracted merchants heading to Sudan, where they brought their goods.”

Neglected splendour

But the community watches the decay with a sense of loss. Mahmoud Muhammad, a local upholsterer, states plainly: “The Lutfi Caravanserai was the main source of the leather trade… Now, it no longer plays the role it once did.” He echoes a sentiment felt by many: “These buildings need attention and development so that they do not collapse.”

They stand as a testament to Assiut’s historic soul, but without immediate intervention, their final chapter one of silence and dust is already being written.